How To Make A Mardi Gras Mask
Mardi Gras is a centuries-old tradition originating in
1. Gather supplies:
Brown paper bag
White glue
Play dough or modeling clay
Rolling pin
Vaseline
Box cutter
Sandpaper
Awl or hole punch
Latex paint (black or white)
Acrylic craft paint in chosen colors
Varnish (non-yellowing)
¼” Dowel rod, 8-12” in length
Glue gun
Detail materials (optional): sequins, feathers, ribbon, glitter, pipe cleaners, tiny beads
2. Prepare your materials
Tear the brown paper bag into small strips, roughly 1” x 2”. The strips do not have to be uniform. Torn edges are superior to cut edges; the torn edge lends a tapered shape to the paper, and the finished product is nearly seamless.
Mix 2 parts white glue with 1 part water. Overall you should not need more than ½ cup of the watered-down glue mixture. Cover the glue until you are ready to use it.
3. Make the mold
You may need a helper for this step. Roll out a piece of play dough or modeling clay to about 1/4”, then place it on the model (the person who will wear the mask). Using your fingers, shape the contours of the model’s face.
Make a half mask by shaping the dough from over the eyebrows to the tip of the nose, and from one temple to the other. Later you can cut the mask smaller if you like; it is always better to make the mask bigger than you need to allow for creative shaping.
When you make a whole mask, allow for breathing through nose, but cover the mouth.
If you want your mask to take on particular characteristics, like a wing shape on each side (think cat’s eyes) or a long beak for a nose, use clay, cardboard or wire – or a combination – to build those features into the mask.
Before you begin the next step, decide whether you want to paper mache the mold on or off the model. The final mask will look better if you paper mache directly on the clay while it is still on the model’s face. The paper mache process should only take about 30 minutes.
Paper mache the mold off the model by peeling the mold very carefully from the model’s face, then place it on an upturned bowl, similar in size to the model’s face. Support the nose with a toothpick to prevent it from collapsing.
4. Paper mache
Spread a thin layer of Vaseline over the clay or dough model. (Do this step while the clay is still on the model’s face.) The Vaseline helps you remove the mask from the clay after the mask dries.
Dip the paper strips in the glue mixture and place them on the clay model. Overlap the edges until the entire clay model is covered, with the exception of airways, as noted above.
Cover the mask with 2-3 layers of soaked strips. If you have time, let each layer dry a bit before adding the next. Smooth the edges of each strip down with your fingers. If an edge stubbornly sticks up, take off that strip and use another.
If you are doing a full mask, paper mache everything but the nose hole. After you peel the clay carefully from the model’s face you can add more layers to that area, and cut holes for breathing when it dries.
Let the mask dry with the clay backing overnight. Peel away the clay and let it dry at least a few more hours. Add more layers of paper mache, if needed, and let it dry thoroughly before you paint.
5. Prep for decorating
Using a box cutter, carefully trim holes for the eyes and the nose. Smooth the face and all edges by sanding lightly with a fine grit sandpaper. Punch a hole on each side of the temple (at least ½” from the edge) if you plan to tie the mask on with ribbon.
Paint the mask with a thin layer of latex paint: you can use wall paint, primer, or acrylic craft paint. Let it dry 1-2 hours, then sand the mask very lightly once more.
6. Paint the mask
Paint with the desired color using any type of craft or wall paint. If you use oil-based paint, do not layer it over latex or vice versa, and have turpentine or mineral spirits on hand for cleanup.
Plan to coat the mask with two layers of the color paint and at least one coat of varnish, with sufficient dry times in between. Check the paint and varnish instructions for suggested dry and recoat times.
Paint the wooden dowel rod to match the mask, if you want to hold the mask up to your face rather than tying it on.
7. Decorate the mask
Paint details on the mask using craft paints and tiny brushes. Glue sequins, glitter, feathers, fuzzy pipe cleaners, tiny glass beads, or other details on the mask in any pattern you wish.
8. Prepare the mask for wearing
The style of mask you made will determine the best way to wear it, whether you tie it on or hold it with a stick. You might also want to consider comfort (snug masks can give you a headache) and the freedom to move (holding a mask to your face all night can put a serious damper on your fun).
If you choose to wear the mask on your face, hands-free, thread two lengths of ribbon (8-12”, depending on how long you want it to trail behind) through the two holes on each side of the mask. Tie the ribbon snugly behind your head. Alternately, you can thread one length of elastic through both holes and tie it off. When you wear the mask, put the elastic over your ears and let your hair cover it.
Attach the dowel rod to the mask with a generous amount of hot glue to the underside of the left or right side of the mask.
Wear your gorgeous mask with pride. Store your mask properly – wrap it in acid-free tissue paper and place it in a dry, cool environment – and it will remain beautiful for years.
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